Nikkei Wine Summit.
By ERIC HAYASHI and GWEN MURANAKA
“I can’t wait to try everyone’s wine!” said Kurtis Ogasawara, director of winemaking at Robert Monday Winery, expressing the overall sentiment at the inaugural Nikkei Wine Summit held at the Japanese American Cultural & Community Center on June 29.
The event, a celebration of the remarkable legacy of Japanese Americans in the wine industry, brought together Japanese and Japanese American wine industry professionals, from attorneys to grape growers to winery owners and vintners.
Ken Minami, vice president and deputy general counsel of Delicato Family Wines, explained that the summit has been a passion project of his and that the Nikkei Wine & Vine Group developed informally to connect Japanese and Japanese American winemakers.
“From what began with only a handful of Japanese and Japanese American winemakers and growers, our group is now over 35 unofficial members and growing!” Minami said.
“Our goal is to promote awareness of these Nikkei winemakers and wine brands. We started with establishing a strong bond between many of the winemakers and the JACCC here in L.A. and requesting wine donations to feature these Nikkei wines at key JACCC events, including AutumnFest and its anniversary dinners.”
The day was informative, with seven panels of speakers. Wine is both science and artistry, and the winemakers shared how they acquired their passion for the delicate grapes.
It started with a history of a samurai, Kanaye Nagasawa, who became the first permanent resident in the U.S. from Japan. Known as “The Grape King,” he arrived in New York in 1867 and settled in Sonoma County in 1875. There Nagasawa operated the Fountaingrove Winery, which produced a third of California’s wine in the early 1900s.
Now, a fourth-generation descendant of Nagasawa, Eiji Akaboshi, is producing wine at the Freeman Vineyard and Winery in Sebastopol.
The following panels had various winemakers and owners speaking about their journeys into the business. Most went to school for enology or vinticulture; however, some of the owners started by doing.
The panelists included David Akiyoshi, winemaker emeritius, Lange Twins Winery; Jason Mikami, owner and grower, Mikami Vineyards; Akiko Freeman, owner and winemaker, Freeman Vineyard and Winery; Byron Kosuge, owner and winemaker, B. Kosuge Wines; Jessica Mozeico, owner and winemaker, Et Fille Wines; and Kurtis Ogasawara, director of winemaking, Robert Mondavi Winery.
Many shared a connection through UC Davis, where Akiyoshi’s father, Minoru, taught. He was also a past president of the American Society for Enology and Vinticulture.
Freeman had an interesting story as America’s first female Asian winemaker specializing in Pinot Noir. She was recently awarded the Green and White Achievement Award by the Dai Nippon Agricultural Association for agricultural goodwill between Japan and the U.S.
Freeman stated that she started in winemaking by learning from the hired winemaker and cleaning the equipment for making wine.
Sonoe Hirabayashi of Six Cloves Wines said that her wine “is balanced and is made to be paired with Japanese food.” She added that her wine especially goes well with places that are humid.
Mozeico, whose winery is located in Oregon’s Willamette Valley, explained her commitment to community, sustainable winemaking, and diversity and equity.
Minami closed the seminar with a tribute to pioneering winemakers who have passed: Tom Mukaida, owner of Mukaida Vineyards, Sebastopol; Mitsuko Shrem, former co-owner of Clos Pegase Winery, Napa; Frank Takahashi, owner of Takahashi Vineyards, Napa; and David Umino, owner of Umino Vineyards, Sebastopol.
Afterwards the participants were eager to sample the wines. There were 18 wineries represented and one wine-associated food vendor. Many of the wines were poured by the winemakers or owners. All were friendly and told their stories about making the wine and flavor profiles.
In addition, many of the wines are specifically produced to pair with Japanese foods.
The food vendor, Wine Chips, hired four sommeliers to help make their chips, which are designed to pair with wines.
The Nikkei Wine & Vine Group and JACCC members celebrate with a group photo at the inaugural
Nikkei Wine Summit.
Following is a list of participating wineries and winemakers (all based in California unless otherwise noted):
B. Kosuge Wines, Napa
Etnyre Wines, Arroyo Grande
Et Fille Wines, Newberg, Ore.
Francis Ford Coppola Winery, Geyserville
Freeman Vineyard & Winery, Sebastopol
Hartford Family Winery, Forestville, Calif.
Kale Wines, Napa
Kazumi Wines, Napa
Lange Twins Winery, Acampo
Materra Cunat Family Vineyards, Napa
Mikami Vineyards, Lodi
Robert Mondavi Winery, Napa
Sakura Winery, Livermore
Schramsberg Cellars, Calistoga
Six Cloves Wines, Sebastopol
Sunset Suisin, Fairfield
Wonderwerk Wines, Los Angeles
Yamachan Wine, Berkeley
Wine Chips, Paw Paw, Mich.
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